Lau Fau Shan was famous for fresh oysters. This was the place where Hong Kong’s best restaurants sourced their seafood and the town’s market was renown throughout the British colony. We had to go experience it for ourselves.
I remember the visit quite vividly. The place was bustling and full of activity. Seafood was auctioned off by local fishermen to fishmongers from the rest of Hong Kong, and fresh product was constantly dropped off and then picked up by an anticipating clientele.
A few years ago, when I digitized some old VHS tapes I found the videos of my Lau Fau Shan visit among the records. I decided to visit Lau Fau Shan again and see how things have changed since my last visit.
The trip to Lau Fau Shan from Hong Kong island is still a long one, albeit much smoother than what it used to be some forty years ago. Only a few MTR line changes and a short bus ride, but still a couple of hours of travel.
Lau Fau Shan at Low Ebb. 2024 vs 1988.
Lau Fau Shan today is far from what it was in its hay days. I found the place nearly deserted and only frequented by a few elderly people. I only saw a few lads offloading the catch of the day. The mountains of oyster shells are also long gone. A strange place for street photography.
“Noone comes here anymore” said the restaurant owner who served me a dish of freshly caught Grouper, “they are all off in Shenzhen. It is much cheaper there.”
Back in the 1980s it is estimated that 100 tons of oysters were harvested every year in Lau Fau Shan. In 1988, Shenzhen had a population of less than 500,000. Today, Shenzhen is a bustling city of almost 15 million, and most of the inhabitants of Lau Fau Shan have long given up the oyster trade.
